I still run a 1993 Putzmiester boom with the smaller swelling cylinders nest truck over the past 10 years that I’ve run it or owned it as through a flowing through a rod out of the swinging cylinder half a dozen times currently is New suing Leighbere all new cups were installed new S2 and we checked the shams to make sure everything lined up good when we put it back together a week ago, three jobs later it’s thrown the slewing cylinder roof again. What do we need to do to stop this?

From what you’re describing (’93 Putzmeister, smaller slewing cylinders, repeatedly blowing the rod / slewing cylinder), there are a few critical areas to look at. Replacing seals, cups, S-tube, and shimming correctly is good—but if it’s still failing after only a few jobs, something upstream is overstressing that cylinder.

Below is a structured checklist you can work through with your mechanic:

1. Check Pump / Truck Level and Set‑up

On older booms especially, being out of level is a big killer of slewing systems.

• Boom must be within factory level spec
  Most manufacturers want the truck within about 3° or less side‑to‑side and front‑to‑back.

• If you are regularly:

  • Setting up on uneven ground
  • Running the boom with outriggers not fully deployed or not properly cribbed
  • Pumping while the truck is leaning or twisting

  …you can be side‑loading the slewing gear/cylinder badly enough to blow rods/seals repeatedly.

What to do:

• Start checking and recording truck level at each setup (simple bubble levels on deck or an electronic level app).
• Make sure outriggers are:
  • Fully extended (as required by the chart)
  • On solid cribbing, no sinking or “soft spots”
  • Not twisted (one outrigger high, one low, etc.)

2. Boom Handling / Operator Technique

The text you’re effectively running into is this reality: sloppy boom handling destroys slewing gear and cylinders.

Things that are hard on the slewing system:

• Rapid, jerky swinging of the boom (especially fully extended)
• Swinging with concrete in the lines and then suddenly stopping the boom
• Whipping the boom side‑to‑side to “drag hose” or move mud instead of using proper placement
• Swinging with the turret not level, so the boom is fighting gravity sideways

What to do:

• Slow down swing movements and avoid sudden starts/stops.
• Keep the boom as balanced/arched as possible—don’t run long, flat sections that put high torsion back into the turret.
• Train any relief operators on gentle swing control.
• If there is noticeable backlash or slop before the boom starts to move, address that mechanically instead of “snapping” the controls to overcome it.

3. Mechanical Alignment of Slewing Assembly

You’ve checked shims, which is good, but with repeated failures you should verify the entire slewing system as a unit:

• Rack and pinion / slewing gear alignment (if applicable to your 1993 model):
  • Teeth should engage evenly across the width
  • No tight spots or binding as you swing full 360°
• Turret and mast alignment:
  • Check for evidence of the turret being twisted, bent, or welded in the past
  • Inspect for cracked or repaired areas where the slew gear mounts
• Cylinder mounting points:
  • Check clevises, pins, and brackets for ovaling, misalignment, or cracks
  • Confirm that when the boom swings from side to side, the cylinder isn’t being forced to side‑bend or twist

Any misalignment that forces the cylinder to work at an angle will dramatically increase side loads and blow seals/rods.

4. Hydraulic Pressure & Relief Settings

If the slew circuit pressure or relief valve is set too high, the cylinder can be over‑pressurized:

• Verify pump pressure to the slewing circuit against Putzmeister’s spec for that model.
• Check the slew relief valve:
  • Make sure no one has cranked it up to “fix” a weak swing.
  • Confirm it opens at the correct pressure.
• Inspect control valves for:
  • Spool sticking or not centering properly
  • Internal leakage causing pressure spikes when you change direction

A pressure gauge on the slewing circuit during operation can show if you’re spiking beyond spec each time you start/stop the boom.

5. Internal Cylinder Issues / Parts Quality

You said:

• New slewing cylinder (or new sleeve?)
• New cups / seal kit
• Shims checked

Also confirm:

• Rod straightness – A slightly bent rod will destroy seals quickly, especially under side load.
• Barrel condition – No scoring, taper, or out‑of‑round.
• Correct OEM spec parts – Seal kits, pistons, and rods should match exactly the original spec, not “close enough.”
• Proper torque on piston nut – If the piston is loose, it can hammer the shoulder and damage the rod/seals.

If you’re using aftermarket components, consider going back to OEM or a verified high‑quality supplier for the slewing cylinder or kit.

6. Check the Slewing Cylinder Parts & Service Info

The slewing cylinder for Schwing is often referenced like:

• Slewing Cylinder assembly example: 10094569
• Seal kit: 10064756
• Retaining ring: 10016233
• Articulated bearing: 10019455

(These part numbers are Schwing examples, but the idea is the same: make sure you’re using the exact, correct kit and associated hardware for your Putzmeister.)

If you haven’t already, it’s worth talking with a Putzmeister service tech or a specialist parts house and giving them:

• Full pump model (e.g., 32M, 36M, etc.)
• Year (1993)
• Serial numbers (pump and boom)

So they can verify you truly have the correct cylinder and internals for that turret.

7. Practical Next Step for You

Given that you’ve:

• Rebuilt/replaced the slewing cylinder,
• Installed new cups,
• Installed a new S‑tube,
• Checked shims,

…yet it failed again after three pours, I’d do this in order:

1. Put gauges on the slewing circuit and confirm pressures against factory spec.
2. Thoroughly inspect the turret, rack/pinion (if used), and cylinder mounts for twist, cracks, or repairs.
3. Observe the operator and setup practice on a live job:
   • Check truck level.
   • Watch how aggressively the boom is being swung.
4. If problems are still not obvious, get a factory‑trained Putzmeister tech on site; older booms sometimes have accumulated frame/turret distortion that only shows up under close measurement.

If you can share:

• Exact model (e.g., 32M, 36M, 42M, etc.),
• Whether it’s rack‑and‑pinion or slew ring,
• What actually “fails” (rod breaks, seal blows, gland cracks, etc.),

I can help narrow this down further for you.